Tensioner Pulley Bearing 2005/02/02 2006/02/04 Updated Related Vortex forum
This morning, When I turned the IG key, I heared the strange sound from passenger side of engine bay. I got off my C, and opened the hood, The strange sound came out from around the tensioner pulley. I replaced the bearing after the work was finished in the work place.

After arriving at the work place, I asked the customer in my company the place of the bearing shop.
However, the bearing which I want was not there, I bought the general bearing.

Sorry This pictur of the bearing is other type, I bought the bearing type is NTN 6203LLBC3 (Non contact sealed type, High speed capacity) 350yen($3).

I took the many picture of that procedure, but, my digital camera ate my 1.5-hours work. :mad:
I take the picture of procedure again.

It's my Vr6's belt tensioner, The one in front is a variable fuel pressure regulator.
Please ignore.

Note: You must remove an air box before this work. Replaced my air box to the Turn2 cold air intake.
Prepare about 40 mm length M8 bolt and tighten up the bolt to tensioner Brackett's thread hole using a socket or wrench and loosen the tension of the belt.

Note: The tensioner case breaks easily when tightening up a too long bolt too much.
The mechanic of the dealer committed that offense on my tensioner before. Stupid mechanic.
Next, remove the 15mm bolt of the pulley.

Turn this bolt clockwise because this bolt is reverse thread.
Remove the pulley from the tensioner arm.

After removing a pulley, hang a belt by the string and so on.
To put the belt in the crank pulley is troublesome when falling under the belt and coming off crank pulley.
This picture is the status of the fit of the bearing and the pulley plastic. This bearing and the pulley seem molded.

In this condition, it isn't possible to pull out a bearing.

Stock beraring is NTN 6203LLH
Shaving the pulley's inner edge by the razor blade reverse side.

The time which this work takes is about 10 minutes.
Can you see this inner edge?

Reduce plastics until the outside edge of the outer race of the bearing can be seen.

The bearing can be pressed if being this status.
Removing the bearing.

The socket, washer and pulley.
Set pulley in the vise with the wood.
Use it because you don't break a pulley.

Then, press it carefully.

Like this.
The bearing came off.
Shaved edge closeup

The plastics hangs about 1.5 mm over the edge of bearing.
I used a small screwdriver to remove the seals from each side of the pulley bearing.

Where is the grease? :D

There was an offensive sound when turning a bearing.
Insert the bearing.

Use the washer with the diameter which is the same as the bearing.

Set the bearing, washer and socket like this.

Set in the vise and press carefully.

Is it straight inserted? If it isn't straight inserted, the pulley will break.

Press until the bearing stops.

This time, I didn't use it but recommend to use the Loctite 641 for between the bearing and the pulley.

If the pulley coming off from the bearing....


This 6203LLB is more worse waterproof and dust protection than 6203LLH because the inner race and the seal don't contact.
However, high speed capacity is very good.
It was designed to handle higher rpm's without damaging the seal... for Oichan. :D

But, next day, I removed the pulley again and checked it. Then, I found the grease on a side seal.

I think that a LLH grade is better than LLB at the tensioner.
Early models tensioner have 17mm pulleys bolt, and later models tensioner have 15mm pulleys bolt.

It seems early models tensioner is good quality than later models one. Compare a pulley guard.
It's my old tensioner unit.
Parts # 021 145 099
At the time of July, 1999, the price of this tensioner unit was 21,700 yen in Japan.(about $200)

Generally, only sold as a full tensioner bracket assembly

In the case of me, I replaced a bearing because I wanted to get home early. :-P
2006/02/04

1 year later・・・・・

The bearing make a noisy sound again.

I opened the side seal to check inside of the bearing.
Where is the grease? angry!!

I filled grease once again. :-P


Note!
I don't know the durability of this bearing when using for this tensioner because the bearing is different from the specification of the manufacturer. When a bearing is broken or the pulley comes off the bearing, the big accident happens. Please do these procedures at your own risk. Before you hear a strange sound from the engine bay, you should see following thread.
VWvortex Forum Lubricating the tensioner pulley bearing thred





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